Exclusive: Designer Asma Kamara’s Latest Release Celebrates Authenticity

Black Cherry founder Tyla Pink sits down with multi-hyphenate creative Asma Kamara, the visionary force behind the eponymous brand AHS.MAH, as she prepares to unveil her latest collection, “Authentic.” After a transformative journey of self-discovery, Asma shares the inspiration behind her new release, which encourages us to embrace our true selves and lean into authenticity. We discuss her commitment to sustainable fashion, embracing her Sierra Leonean culture, upcoming fashion film, and the future of her ever-evolving brand.

After releasing your last collection in 2021 for your eponymous brand AHS.MAH by Asma Kamara, you’re gearing up for your newest release — Authentic. Can you share more about what’s in store?

I’m embracing what it means to be your authentic self. I feel like when growing up, I had way too many influences around me as far as culture, society, and family, and I didn’t realize how much of it impacted me. It pulled me so far away from being my true, genuine self that I have always felt myself to be within. The more I grow older and the more I mature, the more I want to embrace being my authentic self.

How do you want people to feel when rocking these tees?

I want them to feel like themselves! That’s really the whole message – to embrace who you are.

“I’ve noticed there are so many Sierra Leoneans like me who grew up in America, and they’re embracing the culture here alongside their African culture as well, putting that together and making beauty of it.”

Was there a particular moment that inspired this idea for you because this is different from your previous releases?

That’s very true. I would say it all started with my spiritual journey. I began my spiritual journey about four years ago, and as I mentioned, I was very much influenced by what other people wanted me to be, only to now shed all of that and embrace myself more. It’s just a part of myself that I wanted to share with others.

As a woman who wears many hats within the creative field, it’s no surprise that you’re venturing into filmmaking for your upcoming release set to debut later this year, with a short fashion film called “Irunmoles in Los Angeles Act 1.” What is this film about and how does it elevate your designs?

I’ve been working on this new release for over two years now, and my brand has always been about Afrofuturism and embracing the Black experience, especially telling it through the eyes of a dark-skinned woman. A lot of my visuals in the past have shown dark-skinned women, but with this upcoming drop, I do want it to be broader and also introduce a couple of unisex pieces. Overall, my new pieces and the short film paired with it are going to show life through my lens and how I experience life artistically.

Additionally, Irunmoles are known in Yoruba culture as spirits that came (loosely speaking) to heal humanity. I named the film Irunmoles Los Angeles Act 1 because I’ve grown here [Los Angeles] over the past 12 years, and I’d like to show how much it’s come to feel like home.

The way you embed your culture into your brand is especially admirable – from your many pieces titled with traditional Arabic names, to African spirituality highlighted in your upcoming fashion film. Why is infusing your culture into your creative process so significant for you?

“Being an independent artist and doing everything on my own has come with its own set of challenges, but has also helped me grow in my personal life because your business is an extension of you, and it only does as well as you think it can do.“

It’s just a part of me. When growing up, it wasn’t something I knew how to embrace as much, and I kind of created a detachment to it due to growing up in America and allowing that to feed into the belief that African culture wasn’t valuable or worth embracing in such an artistic way. Now, as an adult, I see the beauty in all of it and want to put that beauty out.

Is this new embrace of your culture connected to your reason for creating the Authentic tees?

I would say yes. I’m African, I’m not just Black, so embracing that part of myself as well [has been important] — especially being Sierra Leonean and coming from a country that’s growing economically but still has so much work to be done. I’ve noticed there are so many Sierra Leoneans like me who grew up in America, and they’re embracing the culture here alongside their African culture as well, putting that together and making beauty of it. It helps shine a light on where I’m from and spotlights the beauty of these African countries.

You’ve previously mentioned that your brand is, “Designed with futurism in mind. Dedicated to afrofuturism.” How do these particular movements influence your design ethos and methods?

When leaning into these, I want people to feel like they’re stepping into the future and stepping into something new. My brand is basically the future I want to see in the world, especially given the Afrofuturist visuals I share. I want people to feel unique in this world. I want people to feel that it’s ok to be daring — it’s ok to be different and stand out! I’ve always felt like a person who has naturally stood out no matter where I go, and I don’t have to do much for that. It’s always been easy for me to gravitate towards futurism.

I’ve been a fan of AHS.MAH for a few years now and can confidently say that your Emivia dress is one of my favorite items! How has AHS.MAH evolved over the years and how are you looking towards the future – what’s in store for the brand or for you as a creative?

I hope to keep expanding and reaching as many people as possible. Being an independent artist and doing everything on my own has come with its own set of challenges, but has also helped me grow in my personal life because your business is an extension of you, and it only does as well as you think it can do. I had to expand my mindset so I could allow my business to grow, and at this stage right now, I’m doing everything in my power to push it past a certain level that I feel it’s been at. To outsiders, you see us post new visuals, but it doesn’t encompass what’s going on behind the scenes. I’m just trying to push my brand past a certain point and get it on a wider platform.

“My brand is basically the future I want to see in the world, especially given the Afrofuturist visuals I share. I want people to feel unique in this world. I want people to feel that it’s ok to be daring — it’s ok to be different and stand out!“

Are there any additional things you’d like to share about the brand?

I try to run my business as ethically as possible, especially given how the fashion world creates a lot of waste. I typically do limited runs, and even though these upcoming pieces won’t be as limited, I am doing my best not to run AHS.MAH like a runway brand where I’m constantly releasing clothes. There are so many designers, and we all share many of the same ideas already, so I just want to stick to my own aesthetic, keep it small, and create as little environmental waste as possible.

That’s so important and the fashion industry has definitely come under fire for that. I also saw that you’re mindful about how you source your fabrics. Can you share more about that?

No matter how much my brand grows, I plan to run my business as ethically and sustainably as possible. I also hope it inspires other brands to build sustainable practices as well.

The fabrics I’ve sourced in my previous collections have been deadstock, meaning they’re no longer produced. I utilize those fabric rolls instead of going to companies that are constantly producing fabric because it creates a lot of waste. I see a lot here in Downtown LA — many manufacturers print fabric rolls and dump them in random lots. I see a lot of startups that have no marketing ideas but produce 400 pieces and have no idea how to sell them, so they end up dumping that as well. I try to operate in a way where I’m creating as little waste and using as much as what already exists while making it fresh.

“No matter how much my brand grows, I plan to run my business as ethically and sustainably as possible. I also hope it inspires other brands to build sustainable practices as well.“

Can you share some of your inspirations when designing whether it be other fashion brands or forms of art you’re consuming?

One designer who inspired me — she has a podcast now but doesn’t have her brand anymore, Recho Omondi who does The Cutting Room Floor. She stopped designing because she felt that fashion creates so much waste. I’m also inspired by brands like Mowalola, which is African-led but adds a Pan-African twist.

I’m inspired by so much music and even started making music myself. I especially love artists like Kanye West. I just loved how brazen he was and how much he loved to talk his shit – I picked up a lot on that. I admire his approach to futurism as well.

For movies, Daughters of the Dust has inspired me, The Fifth Element, and other 90s films.

Asma’s “Authentic” release will be available for purchase on Friday, August 16 and can be found at ahs-mah.com.

Credits: Photography by Jenelle Smith | Photos feature Asma Kamara and Ara Dionne